Day 34: July 25 Denver, CO 0 miles

Me with a tree growing from solid rock

Friday, 7/24/81
Kathy's house, Denver CO

I called and located a 28-inch Panasonic bike this morning to replace my stolen one. Kathy and I decided we still had time so we drove to Cripple Creek. Stopped at Garden of the Gods, a collection of upright red sandstone monoliths outside Colorado Springs.

Garden of the Gods

Garden of the Gods



That's me holding up that rock

At Cripple Creek, we descended 4,000 feet into the Mollie Kathleen gold mine. Tunnels, dynamite, tracks, ore cars, and everything. Cripple Creek looked like it should, but all the old buildings were full of gift shops. Had dinner there and talked with a burro. Visited Cave of the Winds on the way home. Very interesting.

My paternal grandfather lived as a boy in Cripple Creek during the boom years, so we had to make a pilgrimage there. He used to tell the story of being high on a step ladder, changing a light bulb, when a confrontation took place below him. As he gazed down, neither man drew his gun till you could cut the tension with a knife. When he couldn't take it anymore, my grandfather said "So shoot him!" or something like that and they did!

Cripple Creek Railroad Station

Kathy & friendly burro

Cripple Creek postcard

Cripple Creek, mine tailings everywhere

Mollie Kathleen Gold Mine

Day 33: July 24 Denver, CO 0 miles

Quartz cave imported from Mexico

Friday, 7/24/81
Kathy's house, Denver CO

Sabre-tooth tigers attack giant ground sloth

Slept in till 9:30. Wrote postcards and journal and worked on my bike till noon. Went to buy a lock. First shop was out of business. Second shop had a lock but I had no money. Three banks wouldn't cash my check, so I said "fuck it" and went to the Mint anyway. The line was too long so I went to the museum and left my bike in front. It was the best museum I'd ever seen. Went to a planetarium and when I came out, my bike was stolen. The museum guards let me use their phone to report to the police, There's a Panasonic dealer here. I guess I'll but a new one.


As I recall, the unfortunate series of circumstances were that 1) I had lost my bike lock (which didn’t matter until we got to the city), 2) I ran out of money (this was before I owned any credit cards—my girlfriend was wiring me money at certain intervals), 3) Kathy was at work, and 4) I wanted to visit the museum. I foolishly hid my bike in the bushes outside and it was gone when I returned—my fault, really.

Day 32: July 23 Big Thompson River Canyon to Denver 50 miles

Thursday, 7/23/81
Kathy's house, Denver, CO

Big Thompson River Canyon

Riding went very fast today. We rode out of the canyon into Loveland and in an hour, turned south to Denver. It was rolling, neither downhill nor tailwinds--no one knows why we did so good. Paralleling the Rockies' Front Range. Lunch in Lafayette. Made it into Denver around 3:00. We stuck together through town and out to the hostel where the guys are staying. Bret and I visited the State Capitol and I went to [my sister,] Kathy's. Most impressive State Capitol I've ever seen. [My brother-in-law,] Woody's in town on business so he came over and for dinner and we watched Neil Diamond videos.

Big Thompson River Canyon

I recall riding along one stretch where there were so many crickets crossing the road, that we had to crunch our way through them—yuck!

First view of Denver

Day 31: July 22 Grand Lake, CO to Big Thompson River Canyon, CO 60 miles

Morning moon over Baker Mountain.

Wednesday, 7/22/81
Private campground, Big Thompson River Canyon

Got up late at the hostel but all psyched up for the big climb. Entered the park at 8:30 Started the real climb at 9:30. Topped out around 1:30, four hours later. I started first and made it to the top first. The thin air never did bother me. I just kept panting.

Headwaters of Colorado River.

Gate Range.

View south from Sheep Rock,

Rocky Mountain meadow

High point: 12,183 feet. At 11,000 feet we moved above the tree line into tundra. I took over 30 pictures, probably too many. Walked on a tundra nature trail. A hailstorm caught me with very high winds on the ridge. It lasted only five minutes, though. Never stopped for lunch, just munched trail mix.

Lava Cliffs--highest point of tour - 12,183 ft

 Rock near Poudre Lake

Rocky Mountain National Park panorama

Fall River Pass trail

Summer snow a Fall River Pass

We gathered again at Estes Park, most touristy town I've ever seen. Rode from there down Big Thompson River Canyon. Very pretty. Some of the nicest downhill riding of the tour.

Camping at a private campground 2/3 way down the canyon. Called [my sister] Kathy to tell her I'd be in tomorrow.
 

Begging marmot

The next morning we accepted the challenge and began the climb. It took us four hours to reach the top, 12,183 feet above sea level. And no sign to have our picture next to! What a disappointment! I thought the thin air would really bother me, but it didn’t. If I just opened my mouth and panted.

Lakes across the valley

Mushroom Rock

While I was pedaling along the ridge up there, on top of the world, a sudden hailstorm hit me. The winds were fierce, and before I knew it I was blown clear across the road and almost into the ditch on the other side. Meanwhile, hailstones were stinging any bare skin they could find. Then suddenly, it was over, just as quickly as it had begun. Later, I asked my friends, who were five minutes behind me, what they thought of the storm. Their reply was. “What storm?” They hadn’t even seen it!

There was 40 miles of downhill following that climb and you can believe I savored every minute of it! After you ride back down off the ridges and into the valleys at the edge of the park, you expect it to level out again. But no, ahead was the Big Thompson River Canyon, a narrow winding canyon, which has enough room at the bottom for the river, the highway, and a scattering of homes and motels. We sailed down this and camped about halfway down for the night. Forty-three people lost their lives in a flood in this canyon in the sixties. There are highway signs all through it saying to the effect “if you see a flood coming, climb for higher ground.” Most disconcerting. We saw no floods, however.

The long ride down!

Big Thompson River Canyon

Day 30: July 21 Walden, CO to Grand Lake, CO 72 miles

Tuesday, 7/21/81
Shadowcliff Hostel, Grand Lake, CO

The omnipresent cattle.

Got up at 5:20 (had to pee) before sunrise. This got the others up and off to an early start. Entered the forest after 25 miles to everyone's relief and delight. Climbed over the Divide at Willow creek Pass (9,683 ft.) Very easy 2-mile climb. Ten miles coast down the other side. Lunch at a NFS campground. Rode through Granby 15 miles to Grand lake. Beautiful rustic/modern hostel on cliff overlooking lake. Bret, Rick, and I went to a waterfall after dinner to play and drink beer, I'm writing in front of a popping fire with other guests.

Rick and Jack take a break at Willow Creek Pass

We left the TransAmerica Trail behind today so we could cross Rocky Mountain National Park.

Built entirely of unpainted, finished wood, the Shadowcliff Hostel was perched on a rocky cliff 300 feet above Grand Lake. Everyone had to walk their bikes up to it but it was worth the embarrassment.


 

Dike at Willow Creek Pass.

Day 29: July 20 Encampment, WY to Walden, CO 50 miles

Monday, 7/20/81
Church, Walden, CO

Mild headwinds out of Encampment this morning. Gentle climbing. I was happy to reach the Colorado state line. The people of Wyoming are very friendly, but the state is very dull and dry. Colorado isn't much better yet, but it is turning greener. Lunch in Cowdrey. Fierce side winds from there to Walden, where we are camping behind a church. Only went 50 miles today because there's no camping for another 30. 71 miles tomorrow takes us to a hostel by Rocky Mountain National Park. Should get into Denver Thursday night.

Day 28: July 19 Rawlins, WY to Encampment, WY 61 miles

Sunday, 7/19/81
Encampment City Park, WY 

No pictures today! Amazing. We rode Interstate 80 for 13 miles out of Rawlins in the morning. Heavy semi traffic. Turned south up the North Platte River valley. Usual dry Wyoming scenery. The wind was a strong side-wind rather than a tailwind.

Stopped at Saratoga for lunch on an island park. Then I spent two hours in their Hobo pool Hot Springs. Neat way to meet people. Water was approximately 120°!

Stopped at Encampment City Park for the night, one mile off the highway. Wind all day. There was a Volunteer Fire Department picnic and they gave us hamburgers, salad, pickles, beans, chips, blueberry and peach pie, and beer free. We paid two bucks though. Toured the museum within afterward. Very nice! 

I can't say it enough. Folks in Wyoming are so nice.