Day 32: July 23 Big Thompson River Canyon to Denver 50 miles

Thursday, 7/23/81
Kathy's house, Denver, CO

Big Thompson River Canyon

Riding went very fast today. We rode out of the canyon into Loveland and in an hour, turned south to Denver. It was rolling, neither downhill nor tailwinds--no one knows why we did so good. Paralleling the Rockies' Front Range. Lunch in Lafayette. Made it into Denver around 3:00. We stuck together through town and out to the hostel where the guys are staying. Bret and I visited the State Capitol and I went to [my sister,] Kathy's. Most impressive State Capitol I've ever seen. [My brother-in-law,] Woody's in town on business so he came over and for dinner and we watched Neil Diamond videos.

Big Thompson River Canyon

I recall riding along one stretch where there were so many crickets crossing the road, that we had to crunch our way through them—yuck!

First view of Denver

Day 31: July 22 Grand Lake, CO to Big Thompson River Canyon, CO 60 miles

Morning moon over Baker Mountain.

Wednesday, 7/22/81
Private campground, Big Thompson River Canyon

Got up late at the hostel but all psyched up for the big climb. Entered the park at 8:30 Started the real climb at 9:30. Topped out around 1:30, four hours later. I started first and made it to the top first. The thin air never did bother me. I just kept panting.

Headwaters of Colorado River.

Gate Range.

View south from Sheep Rock,

Rocky Mountain meadow

High point: 12,183 feet. At 11,000 feet we moved above the tree line into tundra. I took over 30 pictures, probably too many. Walked on a tundra nature trail. A hailstorm caught me with very high winds on the ridge. It lasted only five minutes, though. Never stopped for lunch, just munched trail mix.

Lava Cliffs--highest point of tour - 12,183 ft

 Rock near Poudre Lake

Rocky Mountain National Park panorama

Fall River Pass trail

Summer snow a Fall River Pass

We gathered again at Estes Park, most touristy town I've ever seen. Rode from there down Big Thompson River Canyon. Very pretty. Some of the nicest downhill riding of the tour.

Camping at a private campground 2/3 way down the canyon. Called [my sister] Kathy to tell her I'd be in tomorrow.
 

Begging marmot

The next morning we accepted the challenge and began the climb. It took us four hours to reach the top, 12,183 feet above sea level. And no sign to have our picture next to! What a disappointment! I thought the thin air would really bother me, but it didn’t. If I just opened my mouth and panted.

Lakes across the valley

Mushroom Rock

While I was pedaling along the ridge up there, on top of the world, a sudden hailstorm hit me. The winds were fierce, and before I knew it I was blown clear across the road and almost into the ditch on the other side. Meanwhile, hailstones were stinging any bare skin they could find. Then suddenly, it was over, just as quickly as it had begun. Later, I asked my friends, who were five minutes behind me, what they thought of the storm. Their reply was. “What storm?” They hadn’t even seen it!

There was 40 miles of downhill following that climb and you can believe I savored every minute of it! After you ride back down off the ridges and into the valleys at the edge of the park, you expect it to level out again. But no, ahead was the Big Thompson River Canyon, a narrow winding canyon, which has enough room at the bottom for the river, the highway, and a scattering of homes and motels. We sailed down this and camped about halfway down for the night. Forty-three people lost their lives in a flood in this canyon in the sixties. There are highway signs all through it saying to the effect “if you see a flood coming, climb for higher ground.” Most disconcerting. We saw no floods, however.

The long ride down!

Big Thompson River Canyon

Day 30: July 21 Walden, CO to Grand Lake, CO 72 miles

Tuesday, 7/21/81
Shadowcliff Hostel, Grand Lake, CO

The omnipresent cattle.

Got up at 5:20 (had to pee) before sunrise. This got the others up and off to an early start. Entered the forest after 25 miles to everyone's relief and delight. Climbed over the Divide at Willow creek Pass (9,683 ft.) Very easy 2-mile climb. Ten miles coast down the other side. Lunch at a NFS campground. Rode through Granby 15 miles to Grand lake. Beautiful rustic/modern hostel on cliff overlooking lake. Bret, Rick, and I went to a waterfall after dinner to play and drink beer, I'm writing in front of a popping fire with other guests.

Rick and Jack take a break at Willow Creek Pass

We left the TransAmerica Trail behind today so we could cross Rocky Mountain National Park.

Built entirely of unpainted, finished wood, the Shadowcliff Hostel was perched on a rocky cliff 300 feet above Grand Lake. Everyone had to walk their bikes up to it but it was worth the embarrassment.


 

Dike at Willow Creek Pass.

Day 29: July 20 Encampment, WY to Walden, CO 50 miles

Monday, 7/20/81
Church, Walden, CO

Mild headwinds out of Encampment this morning. Gentle climbing. I was happy to reach the Colorado state line. The people of Wyoming are very friendly, but the state is very dull and dry. Colorado isn't much better yet, but it is turning greener. Lunch in Cowdrey. Fierce side winds from there to Walden, where we are camping behind a church. Only went 50 miles today because there's no camping for another 30. 71 miles tomorrow takes us to a hostel by Rocky Mountain National Park. Should get into Denver Thursday night.

Day 28: July 19 Rawlins, WY to Encampment, WY 61 miles

Sunday, 7/19/81
Encampment City Park, WY 

No pictures today! Amazing. We rode Interstate 80 for 13 miles out of Rawlins in the morning. Heavy semi traffic. Turned south up the North Platte River valley. Usual dry Wyoming scenery. The wind was a strong side-wind rather than a tailwind.

Stopped at Saratoga for lunch on an island park. Then I spent two hours in their Hobo pool Hot Springs. Neat way to meet people. Water was approximately 120°!

Stopped at Encampment City Park for the night, one mile off the highway. Wind all day. There was a Volunteer Fire Department picnic and they gave us hamburgers, salad, pickles, beans, chips, blueberry and peach pie, and beer free. We paid two bucks though. Toured the museum within afterward. Very nice! 

I can't say it enough. Folks in Wyoming are so nice.

Day 27: July 18 Jeffrey City to Rawlins, WY 68 miles

Dike at Muddy Gap--view north

Saturday, 7/18/81
Rawlins, WY

A rainstorm visited us last evening so I went to a Jeffrey City restaurant for a chicken dinner. It was sunny again when we got up. Rode past Split Rock in the morning, ancient landmark. Crossed into the Great Basin, the area that doesn't drain into any ocean. It was flat and dry with alkali flats.

Dike at Muddy Gap--view south (note trees in cracks)

A van pulled up in front of Bret and I and who should hop out, but Joe and Pauline and Rudy. I hadn't seen them since Baker, Oregon! They finished their trip at Lander and were on their way to Denver. There were only one day behind me at Yellowstone! Pretty good. We share greetings and talked and they took off.

Climbed out of the Basin and into Rawlins. Bike shop fixed my broken rack for free! 40 - 50 mph winds here. Craziness!

That windstorm blew at 50 to 60 mph for two solid hours! No rain, just dust. A girl told me that the only time people notice the wind in Rawlins is when it stops blowing. Maybe, but even the natives noticed this storm. 
 

That nice bike shop owner said, “Oh yeah, that model always breaks right about here.” (Remember, he is on the TransAmerica Trail.) He not only fixed it for me, he absolutely refused to charge me the service! People in Wyoming are nice!

The omnipresent cattle.

Day 26: July 17 Lander, WY to Jeffrey City, WY 58 miles

Wyoming geology.

Friday, 7/17/81
Jeffrey City Park, WY

Dull day--only rode 60 miles. Lunch at Sweetwater Station--so named because a mule carrying sugar fell in the river. Girl at historical marker told me ruts a foot deep from the Oregon Trail were near by. Jeffrey City, where we're camping in the park, is shrinking because the uranium mill closed due to low uranium prices. They say it'll open in a couple of years. Strong headwinds all afternoon. Then an hour thunderstorms here in town, which we sat out in the grocery store.

"Where the deer and the antelope play..."

We did see quite a few antelope playing amongst the sagebrush, though. And plenty of cattle to stare dully at you as pedal past. 
And donkeys--oil derrick donkeys all over the state.

Barn swallow chick in a rest area shelter.

More Wyoming geology.

Quintessential Wyoming.